Tiled roof with gently purring fans, the sound of waves rolling on the sand, the homely chairs and tables on smooth cemented floor, tender palms swaying in the warm breeze - this is Tharvad for you.

The place nestles cosily in a corner of Thiruvanmiyur beach right on the coast. Run by a family of North-India bred Keralites, the place reminds you of the spacious verandahs of rural homes you visited ages ago. The menu consisting of traditional Kerala cuisine, is simple and matches with the mood of the place.

We are ravenous and decide to skip the soup. We start the meal with the well-known appam and stew combination. The vegetable stew, laced with coconut oil, is like no other I`ve tasted before. The soft appams melt in the mouth and before I know it I've had three. This is followed by a coconut-based peas curry in which the mild spices blend well with the sweetness of the peas. The egg appam is, when teamed with chicken stew, prawn masala or beef roast, a match made in heaven.

The menu offers a wider choice for non-vegetarians. The beef curry, cooked with a lot of tangy tomatoes, is spiced just right and smacks of the earthy flavour of coriander seeds. The squid is too rubbery for our liking and the sharpness of the spices stands out.

The Syrian beef roast is a winner and tastes great with both ghee rice and parotta. The ghee rice is cooked to perfection - it is neither too soft nor too firm. The wonderful flavour makes the mind overlook the 'calorie' warnings and we go for second, even third helpings.

The puttu is a little dry and is unable to score full marks. We find it overcooked - without enough moisture left in it - to lend it the usual softness.

The prawn fry is deceptively plain-looking but the first bite proves us wrong. It is marinated well and fried to perfection. By the time we get to the end of the meal, several appams have disappeared much to the delight of our host. Invitation to dessert is turned down with heavy hearts and heavier stomachs.

We are introduced to the chef who is thrilled to switch over to his own tongue. He talks at length about where he has picked up his culinary skills.

The dishes are priced very reasonably and the servings are adequate. It can be said without hesitation that the place is a must-visit for all Keralites who miss their Tharvad and others who would like to get a taste of one.